Roland JV-1080 Synth - Page 2 - Simply Maya User Community

Introduction to Maya - Rendering in Arnold

This course will look at the fundamentals of rendering in Arnold. We'll go through the different light types available, cameras, shaders, Arnold's render settings and finally how to split an image into render passes (AOV's), before we then reassemble it i

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# 16 28-11-2007 , 09:41 AM

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mmmm - nice work dj - and a good contrast to your game models. always good to see what you're up to. user added image

arran3D

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# 17 28-11-2007 , 12:41 PM

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Dj.. Why do we always see stunning WIP's but never see you in the challenge forums user added image

It looks great by the way!

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# 18 28-11-2007 , 01:27 PM

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Thanks Louis! Hehe, I participated in one challenge about 1.5 year ago, didn't finish it though (as 90% of all the other people user added image

I had thought about joining again but when I remember it's always like half through.... next time maybe..

In other news:

I finished the modeling of the front. So I applied some basic material.

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# 19 28-11-2007 , 01:28 PM

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And a close-up

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# 20 28-11-2007 , 01:51 PM

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Theres always time to start a challenge. You seem to roll out these WIP's in minutes and the challenge ends around Feb so u'd be safe.

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# 21 28-11-2007 , 03:47 PM

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hey - how did you do that dial with the grooves on the edges? is it modeled? I have something similar on one of my models and was thinking of using a displacement...

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# 22 28-11-2007 , 10:54 PM

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Yes it's modelled, I was thinking of using a displacement, but then I found a way of doing it modeling wise. I'll show a wire later.

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# 23 29-11-2007 , 01:08 AM

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Thanks for the wire Dj blazer looks good. How long does it take you to model a small but detailed object like this?

thanks,

gubar

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# 24 29-11-2007 , 01:17 AM

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I started it on monday, been working a couple of hours mon-wed... somewhere around 8 hours so far. But most time consuming was to measure everying to get correct proportions. If I just eyeballed it and didn't care about the beveled edges it would probably had taken one hour user added image

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# 25 29-11-2007 , 03:22 PM

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Thanks DJbLAZER. I'm already upload my reading lamp and maxwell result will be ok, you can find me.

Thanks a lot.
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# 26 02-12-2007 , 05:47 PM

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arran, here's a wire, the bottom one is smoothed one iteration. Basically I created a cylinder with the amount of notches the dial has. I then added an edge loop in the middle. Then I selected all faces on one half and every other face on the other half and extruded upwards. Then added some edge loops to hold the edges some.

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# 27 02-12-2007 , 06:23 PM

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thanks dj. user added image

yeah - i ended up doing something similar for my model as the displacement map was proving to be quite a headache and probably a bit unnecessary for something so small.

cheers mate! user added image

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# 28 03-12-2007 , 04:44 AM

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So, I finished the modelling of the rear.

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# 29 04-12-2007 , 03:27 PM

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Djblazer it's looking great as usual.

Wondering if I can hijack your thread for a bit of quick advice.

I'm about to start modeling a VCR, so the technique will not be too dissimilar to yours. Say you are modeling the square holes on the body, for where the buttons will go. You'd have at least 4 intersecting lines to dictate the edges of the rectangle, then extrude inwards. To ensure it smooths well, do you have a rule of thumb about adding extra edge loops etc? One at least on either side, on on the inside of the extrusion... am I along the correct lines?

If you could give me a bit of advice and maybe a close up of your mesh on these kind of areas that'd be great.

cheers,

gubar

**EDIT:

I meant' to add, when you're adding the new edge loops, how to you ensure that they're exactly the same distance from the edge (to make sure it's uniform/geometrically exact) - or do you just do it by eye?

Last edited by gubar; 04-12-2007 at 03:36 PM.

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# 30 04-12-2007 , 06:41 PM

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I'm eyeballing a lot, and snap to edges/vertices etc. If you want perfect precision you should stick to NURBS...

This is how I usually make square wholes:

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